Czech republic

Route: Mikulov - Brno - Telc - Vlashim - Prague

On the clock: 3150 kms

Country number 6

It was already getting dark by the time I cycled through the Austrian/Czech border and I was still 50 kms from my Couch Surfing host in the city of Brno. A hideous ride battling headwinds had thwarted my plan of getting from Vienna to Brno in a day. The first town I reached in the Czech Republic was Mikulov. I cycled to the train station and jumped on the first train to Brno.

Spidla

I arrived at my CS host Petr’s house at 9pm, had a quick chat and some food and then took my weary body to bed. Petr went to his job of Professor in French at the local university the next morning and I had a lazy morning of lounging around with Spidla the cat, my new best pal. Petr and I enjoyed several days and nights of fine wine and Francophile chat. I was happy to have chosen him over all the other CS hosts in Brno. My planned 2 days in Brno turned into 5 when I discovered that my two favourite cycling superstar adventurers Katya and Mirko were going to be in town and lovely Petr was happy for me to stay.

After hearing what Henri the existentialist cat had to say, Spidla started questioning her motivation, smoking Gauloises and wearing a beret.

Torture reenactment at Spilberk castle: nice

View of Brno from Spilberk castle

On the day of their arrival, we all piled back to Petr’s and spent the night reminiscing about our first meeting in Dali, China. As a couple who have funded almost 10 years of bicycle touring through selling handmade jewellry and doing street performances, it’s hard not to respect them. The great thing about Katya and Mirko is that they remind me that anything is possible. Mirko asked me my plans for Winter and I said I wasn’t entirely sure. His response was simple: “Well you have your bike here and some money, why not fly to Vietnam with us and go on another cycle trip?”  I have no intentions of going to Vietnam but the point is .......... I COULD!

If you would like to find out how Ben and I met these two and read about our travels in Yunnan province then click here:

http://benandmargosworldcycle.blogspot.de/2011_01_01_archive.html

You can also follow Katya and Mirko’s epic voyage by bike on their website:

www.cyclingnomads.org

The next morning was leaving day. We said our goodbyes then Petr and I headed out of town on our bikes. Petr was heading to his cottage, 30 kms from Brno in the countryside. I had decided to go with him en route to my next Couch Surfing host in Telc over 100 kms away. After 20 kms we stopped for a lunchtime beer in the beautiful sunshine. It had became obvious that it was highly overambitious to try to visit Petr’s cottage(which was kind of in the wrong direction) and make it to Telc that evening. After finishing our beers we rode another few kms to a turn-off which led to the 23 road.  It was here I said goodbye to Petr, already knowing that I was pushing it to arrive in Telc in the daylight.

Petr

It didn’t take long before I began to regret my decision not to go to the cottage. It had been such a nice offer, especially with the promise of a bonfire and sauna. I put the thought out of my mind, consoling myself with the idea that it would not be my final visit to the Czech Republic and thus there would in fact be a next time.

I passed through Rudka whilst they were having their village festival. These girls forced me to drink wine and eat cake. 

And gave me this for good luck......

The weather was glorious and had been every day of my stay in the Czech Republic. The hills in this part of the country were not too steep but never-ending. I made my way on country roads as far as Namest nad Oslavu, wanting to join the busy 23 road as late as possible. Once on the main road, I sped along as fast as I could to the town to Trebic. By the time I arrived there it was almost 6.30. I had only 30 mins of light and 35 kms still to do. Cycling in the dark on the busy main road was not an appealing option but I just had to get on with it. I stuffed my face with a falafel kebab, donned my hi-viz jacket and put my lights on. By the time complete darkness came, it was 7.15 and I was not having fun. Cars sped passed me in the darkness as I was being simultaneously blinded by the full beam of oncoming motorists. I passed through only the occasional village, cycling the rest of the time in total darkness through forests and countryside. I felt cold, lonely and vulnerable so sung a medley of my favourite songs to keep me going. When I realised I was only 10 kms from Telc, my mood improved and I began to feel the end was in sight. I cycled into Telc just before 10 pm, exhausted and wired to the moon.

Night cycling in the Czech Republic

I felt bad at turning up so late at my Couch Surfer’s house but when I arrived, Ivana came out to greet me with a smile and welcome me in to the house. After my shower, I was sat down to some wild mushroom soup and plum dumplings. Life was good again. A peaceful guest room and freshly made bed were waiting for me upstairs. I couldn’t wait to get horizontal.

It was a pleasure to meet 23 year old Ivana, such a lovely young woman with a beautiful family. Ivana’s main reason for becoming a CS host was to improve her English and I hoped that she’d made some progress during the short time we spent together. The next morning, we went  for a walk around the beautiful town of Telc, stopping in for tea and cake at her grandmothers before returning home for lunch.

I said my goodbyes to the family and thanked them for what had been a short but very enjoyable stay then Ivana set off on her bike with me to show me out of town. We said our goodbyes at the turn-off to the 112 road and I set off for Vlashim, 80 kms away. I would have to get a move on as it was already 2pm. The 112 road North was ideal for cycling. I still had constant climbing and descending but the road was quiet and led me through some beautiful countryside. My fist stop was Pelhrimov, 35 kms away. I munched on some bread and cheese and the organic apples and plums Ivana had given me from her garden before setting off again. I cranked up my MP3 player and zoomed along feeling on top of the world.

Ivana

I was around 10 kms or so from Vlashim by the time it got dark. Compared to the previous night however, this was nothing and I knew I would be there in no time. Reaching the town centre I made my way to the house of Iva and Yann, 2 friends of Katya and Mirko who had invited me to stay. As it turned out, they were not at home but actually 10 kms away in their caravan. I didn't have to wait long for Yann to turn up with the keys however and in the interim made friends with the lovely Algerian family in the local kebab shop. They had assured me that if Yann didn't turn up I could have a bed at theirs for the night. I enjoyed a cup of tea and plate of fried rice while I waited and played with the owner's 2 year old daughter. When I left little Meriem gave me a hug and kiss and tried to follow me up the road!.

"Snakes on the road". The sequel to "Snakes on a plane".

Yann let me in the went back to the caravan leaving me the house to myself. I had a good nights sleep and cycled the following morning to see where Yann and Iva were working. It was a beautiful ride to Buchov 10 kms away through quiet country roads and friendly villages. Yann and Iva do the cooking in a meditation centre here and have bought a large piece of land there where they will soon be building a house. Yann walked me around, proudly showing me the many trees he has planted and where the house will be when it is finished. He then asked me if I would like to see some 3 week old kittens. I told him no thanks. Don’t be silly, of course I wanted to see them. Here they are..............

Yann

How can you say that to Emo kitty?

Iva with tent cat

I spent the night camped in my tent, having a sleepover with one of the mummy cats who obviously fancied a night away from the kids. Despite having borrowed a second sleeping bag, I was freezing the whole night. Not too much body heat was to be had from the cat but I'm sure she had a snug night snuggled against me in my sleeping bag.  I woke up to a frost covered tent and decided that that would be my last night of camping of this trip. It didn’t take me long to thaw out in the morning sun and it had been a beautiful camp spot. I shared some tea with Yann while Iva got on with the cooking, said my goodbyes and set off for Prague, an easy 60 kms away.

It was another beautiful day for cycling. I made my way on country roads to the city of Benesov then followed the 106 road through Tynec and the mountain-top town of Jilove. I carried on on the back roads through Liber and Dolni Brezany, happy to have found such a quiet road to get into such a big city. Arriving in the southern outskirts of Prague however, I realised I would have to find a cycle path soon. The roads were not set up for cycling and being rush hour, it was chaotic to say the least. I asked a few cyclists how to get to the area of Letna and was directed onto a cycle path which would take me down to to the Vitava river which I would then follow to my destination. I was still a good 15 kms away but the ride was really nice and completely off-road. I eventually reached the city centre and could see the hill behind which Letna sat on the other side of the river. It was just getting dark by the time I rang Graeme's buzzer. I had made it.

Arriving in Prague

I had only met Graeme once before but as a friend of my good friend Mark, he had invited me to stay for a few days. In fact, he even moved into his girlfriend's place while I was there so I could have some privacy. What a guy. I spent an amazing few days in Prague and fell in love with this vibrant capital city. Letna is an interesting, arty part of the city with loads of chilled out bars selling Czech lager for 80p a pint. This is a far cry from the city centre where everything is geared for tourists and triple the price.

Graeme and Christiana

I was happy to be able to meet up with Katya and Mirko again. Mirko took us to a Cajovna, a traditional Czech tea house where you can sample hundreds of different teas. We have our very own Cajovna in Glasgow(or at least we did last time I checked - shame on you Glasgow city council)  and to be honest, it is pretty similar to those found in the Czech Republic. 

Sometimes in life you just know when enough is enough and arriving in Prague I knew my cycling for this year was over. I had done enough and arriving in Prague signaled the end of what had been a beautiful 3000 km summer journey. I booked a ticket to Berlin only to discover that I couldn't get my bike on the train. I won't bore you with the details but the upshot is, my faithful steed is still at Graeme's and I am now in Berlin with backpack. I plan to spend the next 6 weeks in amazing Berlin catching up with friends and improving my German before I head for the French Alps again. I will be working as a chalet host from December till April, enjoying the Alpine winter vibe, topping up my bank balance and improving my currently non-existent skiing-skills. Then who knows what Spring will bring but finances and health willing, hopefully another bike trip. 

What home wouldn't be enhanced with this beautiful hand-embroidered William and Kate cushion?

Thanks to my sponsors at the local tanning salon in Berlin. Nice billboard: subtle, not too much.

Also, if you have a bit of spare cash and would like to donate a couple of pounds/euros/czech crowns to a worthwhile charity, then please click on the link for the Cedar Centre on the top right hand side. Thank you in advance from the animals.

And thank you to everyone who has read my blog. Not long to go till the next one. Till then...........

 Peace

Route: Graz - Vienna - Passau - Vienna - Poysdorf

On the clock: 2820 kms

After a very quick transit through lovely Slovenia I found myself back in Austria, this time at the Eastern end of the county. It was a tough 19% climb up to the border then a fun descent down. I asked a passing cyclist the best way to get to Graz, some 60 kms away and the lady kindly accompanied me to the Murradweg cycle path. I was happy to discover that this route following the river Mur was signposted all the way to Graz and was flat! I had a lovely ride in the sunshine along the river and through country lanes, hardly touching a road at all. After 70 kms or so I got chatting to another cyclist who was also on his way to Graz. We did the last 10 kms together and in town he escorted me right to the front door of my Warm Showers host in the city centre. All in all, the day had been pretty seamless.

Sevi

Sevi was out but had left me keys to get into his apartment on the 7^th floor. By the time he got back I was fed and showered. He had just finished the “Race around Austria” and regularly competed in other big events often clocking up over 350 kms/day. He was planning a cycle touring trip to Oz in October and I told him about my bike travels there. I had a look around Graz the following day and found it to be a really relaxed, friendly place. I climbed up to the BergSchloss for a better look of the city and had a nap and an ice cream in the sun. In the evening, I made pizza for dinner and Sevi and I ate together before he went off to stay the night with his girlfriend, leaving me the house to myself.

Graz

Next morning it was chucking it down. My alarm went off at 6 but unsurprisingly I took one look out the window and rolled over on my side. I woke again at 8 to more rain but resigned myself to just having to get on with it. It was my plan to do the 210 km ride from Graz to Vienna in one day, beating my previous longest day of 180 kms. The miserable weather however dampened my enthusiasm for such an undertaking and I set off at 9.30am, hoping to get at least most of the way to Vienna by nightfall.

Leaving Graz was miserable. After 10 kms I was soaked to the skin and freezing cold. I followed the R2 cycle path to Bruck an der Mur, stopping midway to shelter from the rain and change my clothes in a tiny train station waiting room. I devoured my sandwiches before setting off in the not quite so heavy rain. I arrived in Bruck and der Mur then started following signs for the Murztalradweg(R5) towards Murzzuschlag. The ride took me through some beautiful countyside and again was all off road however it was hard to feel positive in such cold, miserable weather. It was Sunday and I hardly saw a soul on the cycle path. I plodded on, slowly ticking off the kms to Vienna. By the the time I reached Murzuschlag I had done over 100 kms and still had a few hours of light. So after a bite to eat, I carried on, beginning to feel a faint glimmer of hope that I could in fact reach Vienna that night.

It was almost nightfall by the time I reached Wiener Neustadt. With 160 kms on the clock, I decided to call it a day. The heavens opened and before long I was soaked to the skin again. I had a choice: wild camp in this disgusting weather or jump on a train for the remaining 50 kms and spend the night in a warm bed at my friends house. I bought my ticket then set up camp on the train station platform making some soup on the stove to warm me up. As I watched the pavements turn to rivers in what was now a torrential downpour I felt confident that I’d made a good choice.

On the train I got chatting with Alexander, another cyclist who had like me, aborted the remainder of his ride to Vienna in favour of the train. Arriving in Vienna, Alexander then escorted me to Louise and Markus’s house, going at least 10 kms out of his way. It was such a big help. Vienna is a massive, sprawling city and pretty difficult to navigate  in the daytime let alone on a rainy night. Many, many thanks Alexander.

It took a few rings of the buzzer before a bleary-eyed Markus and Louise came out to greet me. It had been over a year since we’d seen each other. I was so happy to see them and despite having been rudely awoken on a school night, they were happy to see me too. After some tea and a fry up, I flopped into bed, happy not to be sleeping in a waterlogged ditch. I had another 3 days before I was due to fly back home, just enough time to get a feel for Vienna. I was glad to be coming back as 3 days together definitely wasn’t enough.

Pretend pointing.

Dream on Markus

Who's he?

I said “see you soon” to Louise, Markus and my bike and jumped on the bus to Bratislava airport. I would be returning  to Scotland for Michala and Andy’s wedding and a quick visit to friends and family. I won’t bang on too much about what was the wedding of the century as this is, after all, a travel blog but let’s just say, I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.

Louise and I spent the following day getting our bikes and gear ready for our Danube trip. We would take the train from Vienna to Passau then cycle the 320 or so kilometres back to Vienna on the Donauradweg(Danube cycle path). By 5 o’clock we were packed which left us just enough time to catch 3 euro cocktail happy hour at the bar round the corner.

 Meeting Louise outside her work on the day of my return, I felt like I’d never been away. It was an unexpected scorcher of a day so we took our noodle box lunch to Prater park for a quick sunbathe. Returning back to the flat, we jumped on our bikes and headed down to the Danube for a swim. As we were fairly near to the FKK(nudist) part of the river, it didn’t seem to out of place that a few naked guys were wandering around. However we were a little surprised to notice that one of them had started masturbating furiously on the cycle path just behind us. Louise and I got a total fit of the giggles and could do nothing but laugh hysterically at the spectacle. We then noticed a guy on a road bike and lycra peeking out from behind another bush. He was at it too: one hand holding his bike and the other hand..... Whilst all this was going on, another guy came creeping round the bushes for a look. Had we accidentely stumbled across the filming of a new reality TV show called “Extremist masturbators”? It was time for us to go.

I met Louise outside work again with my fully loaded bike in tow. She had brought her bike to work so we were able to head directly to the train station. We arrived in Passau and made our way down to the Danube. It was a wet, horrible evening but we tried not to let it get us down. It was around 6 in the evening, just an hour and a half before nightfall.  We had to get out of town in that time and find a suitable place to set up camp for the night. After 16 kms we pulled in down a dirt track and found a great little spot by the river. We got cooking our pasta just as the last light was fading, thankful that the rain had stopped long enough to let us get set up. We sat by the moonlit river watching the huge, brightly lit passenger and cargo ships go past. They created some huge waves and we had to hold our breath the first couple of times thinking that they were going to wash us away. They didn’t. We watched an episode of Peep Show on the laptop before settling down for the night.

Rain battered the tent most of the night but my little Vango Soul 200 did us proud, keeping the rain out. It was a tight squeeze: technically a 2 man tent but realistically a 1 man tent with plenty space for gear so ideal for me on my own. With 2 of us, it was simply a tent for sleeping.

And she's off

Piss wet through already. Cycle touring is fun!

We woke next morning at 8,30am which is usually unheard of when wild camping. I’m usually up and away by 6.30 when I’m on my own. It was a miserable, wet morning. We had some tea then packed up the sodden tent. Back out on the cycle path we cycled in the rain another 10 kms before stopping for breakfast at a visitor centre. The sun came out for 5 minutes or so then disappeared behind thick cloud again. The rain had stopped at least. I was surprised by how few cyclists were on the path as I thought September would still be a popular month for cycling. In Summer, this part of the Danube is heaving.

As soon as the weather lifted, so did our spirits and before long we were zooming along having a great time. At around 45 kms we stopped for a lunch of instant noodles cooked on the stove. We carried on, cranking up our mp3’s for a while to help us get some miles in. 

Ferry across the Danube

Is this a duck I see before me?

After about 80 kms we arrived in the city of Linz. What a lovely city, much friendlier than Vienna. It was so nice to have a cycling companion again, mainly of course for the company and the shared experiences but also practically speaking as one of you can always stay and look after the bikes. We watched overhead as the skies turned black: we were in for a soaking. As we headed back over the bridge to the cycle path, it started. We got our raincoats on and carried on. Having bypassed a fantastic stretch of the river where wild camp spots would have been plentiful, we found ourselves cycling through a built-up area of shops and retail outlets with no access to the river. Darkness was falling: we had to get camped soon. By the time, we had made our way out of the unexpected urban sprawl, it was 7.30pm and night had fallen. We put our lights on and carried on into the night. At 112 kms we arrived at the campsite in Au to find the gate locked and so set the tent up on a nice stretch of riverbank across the road. I congratulated Louise on her heroic efforts on the bike that day and we sat down to a glass(plastic cup) of wine and some tortelloni.

Keen as mustard

Louise hits 100 kms

It was a very early rise for us the next morning as we were camped on land where it specifically said “no camping”. We didn't have many other options however after such a late finish. As soon as the tent was away though we could relax and enjoy a leisurely morning by the river. It looked like we were in for some good weather. Unsurprisingly, Louise had the onset of pretty serious saddle soreness and I hoped she would be fit for the day ahead.

A hobo, Linz

The weather was glorious so after 30 kms we stopped for a quick snooze in the sun. Louise really wasn’t comfy on the bike. We tried putting the seat forward and lowering the handlebars which didn’t make much of a difference. Like a trooper though she got her sorry ass back on the saddle and kept pedalling. On a positive note, the cycling was fantastic: winding country roads, flower-filled meadows and all the while the Danube sparkling in the sun. Whatsmore, the wind was giving us a free lift to Vienna!! Sunshine and a tailwind: you just can’t ask for more.

We zoomed along at a great speed, often doing a 30 km/h average and stopped after 55 kms for a lunch of soup and pasta. It also seemed like a good moment to have a liddle whaaaaan(French accent) with our lunch. At around 85 kms we reached the town of  Melk, popping into Hofer(Aldi with a silly name) for some provisions for Sunday. You see in Austria, the Sabbath still has some meaning and not only are all the shops closed but it is against the law to make any noise. Ssshh!

Panniers stuffed with all sorts of nice treats for the days ahead, we cycled on another 5 kms to Schonbuhel where we treated ourselves to a night in the campsite. It was a nice enough place but not great value for money. However, any campsite would by comparison be cheaper for me as I was now splitting the cost with someone. Louise treated herself to not one but two 50 cent showers: one for washing her stinky body and the second for pure pleasure. Dinner that night was a belter: spinach Knodeln and instant mash potato. Now if that’s not fine dining I don’t know what is. We gobbled it all up like a couple of hungry badgers then got into the world’s tiniest two man tent for a third night, settling down for a few episodes of Peep Show on the laptop.

"What do you call a duck on drugs?" A quackhead.

Accidental hip-hop look

Next morning was Sunday so we decided to take it easy and enjoy a relaxed morning. After several teas and coffees and breakfast on the banks of the Danube, we slowly got packed up. By 11 am we were ready to set off. Louise was on Markus’s bike which was not set up properly for her and just a little too big. This wouldn’t matter so much on an afternoon ride but after 200 kms starts to become a serious problem. I knew how saddle soreness felt and it’s no joke. Regardless, she mounted the instrument of torture, gritted her teeth and carried on without complaint.

The previous days tail wind had gone but thankfully the weather stayed dry for us the whole day. We crossed over the Danube for a look at the town of Krems only to find a marathon underway. The place was mobbed so we made our way back over to the other side of the river. At 40 kms we stopped for lunch. This time we had a bench each for a snooze so had a good kip for an hour or so. By this point we were around 80 kms from Vienna and Louise had resigned herself to camping out another night.

Winemaking in the Wachau

We pushed on, stopping a few times to buy fruit for sustenance from little road side stalls. The mp3 players were cranked up and the heads were down. Our next stop would be Tulln at about 80 kms which turned out to be nearer 90 kms after we took our first wrong turn. Sat on a bench near Tulln we scoffed a banana and I tentatively asked Louise if she thought the end was in sight enough to push on and finish the ride that evening. She still wasn’t convinced but I could see a faint glimmer of hope in her eyes. Both of us wanted to finish that night so we could have a full day off relaxing in the house.

We cycled another 10 kms which brought us around 30 kms from Vienna. The sun was setting behind us over the Danube. It was at this point that Louise decided she would be sleeping in her own bed that night and from that point there was no turning back. By the time we reached a sign that said Vienna 25 kms, night had fallen. We got our bike lights and hi-viz jackets on and pedalled into the darkness. I actually love night cycling if it’s on a cycle path.

The next sign we reached said Vienna 8 kms. We had broken the back of it. Reaching 100 kms, we had the compulsory ringing of the bike bells which I also do religiously even on my own. Clicking 113 kms, Louise had broken her longest day record. Before long, we started to see the familiar skyscape of Vienna’s city centre buildings.

Louise lives very close to the Danube so we were able to follow the river right to the house. I asked Louise if she could have envisaged herself cycling 131 kms that morning. Her answer was no. But that is exactly what she had done. Arriving at the house, I gave her a big hug. I was so proud of her. Getting on a bike with no training or cycle touring experience and cycling 350 kms in 3 days was a fantastic achievement. It had been so nice to have some company and share my experience with someone again .Louise was a great travel companion and I hope we will ride again some more now that she(maybe) has the cycle touring bug. I’ll probably wait till she can walk again before suggesting another trip though!

As soon as we got in the house, Markus made the hungry travellers some dinner and tea which was gratefully hoovered up in no time. Then it was shower and bed. I spent another week in Vienna before setting off North to the Czech Republic. Saying goodbye to Louise was hard as we had spent so much time together over the last few weeks. I knew I was going to miss her.

A night at the opera

 It was a 60 km ride to the Czech border into, I soon realised, a ferocious headwind. I had a soul destroying day ahead of me fighting against the elements and losing. It was at this point that I realised that my trip was naturally coming to an end. With Winter comes a natural desire to build a nest and baton down the hatches for a while. I noticed the shift in my psyche very clearly and knew that Berlin, 700 kms away would be my final destination, for this year anyway. I eventually made it on to Brunner Strasse(the number 7 main road)  after 50 kms or so then followed it North for as long as I could. As I approached Poysdorf however it became insanely busy. The volume of traffic coupled with dangerously high winds made it impossible to cycle on this road safely so I made my way onto my only escape route: a dirt farm track leading to who knew where. I couldn’t believe my luck however when it led me straight onto the Euro Velo 9 cycle path which I had been looking for, unsuccessfully, all day.

The route took me through wine country, a beautiful ride. The wind blowing in my face however left me unable to appreciate any of the beauty around me. A passing cyclist going the other way gave me a cycle map of the area and told me that route 91 would take me straight to Mikulov, just over the border. He clearly pitied the poor fool who had resigned herself to an unwinnable battle against Mother Nature and wished me luck as he sped off with the wind at his back.  I carried on averaging around 12 kms/h without seeing another soul most of the day. What should have been a 4 hour ride had taken me the entire day. Night was falling as I cycled, exhausted into the Czech Republic